Showing posts with label Matt. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Matt. Show all posts

Saturday, 9 February 2013

Day 129: London

Highlights:
  • Wellcome Collection people watching
  • Death: A Self Portrait, and particularly 
  • Argentinian Collective Mondongo
  • Subversive Spanish painter, Francisco Goya

Sitting in the Wellcome Collection cafe was an experience itself with its impressively diverse clientele. I sat with a coffee watching the raised eyebrows and smirks of the middle-aged woman opposite me clearly discovering the S&M delights of 50 Shades of Gray; the old guy to my left peering through his glasses at his touch screen phone whilst adjusting the cord that held them around his neck; two modern vikings with woolly coats walking past talking in a Scandinavian language and finally a 20-something guy dressed like a backpacking Crocodile Dundee. It was the finest visitor crowd that a European museum could offer. 

The glasses cord old guy next to me had a friend who was clearly a journalist. After discussing how newspapers should be bound by the shit-loads of stalker legislation currently in existence, he told a story about an article he'd recently written about a man who had called the police to report that his neighbour had stolen all of his plant pots. The police arrived at the neighbour's house later that afternoon and said if the plant pots weren't returned in 24 hours, they'd have to arrest him. So the guy returned the plant pots. Probably like you, I admit I was expecting a twist in this story and so was a little disappointed to find out that the whole purpose of the story was that sometimes police are good, quick to respond and use common sense. I suppose his point was just an extension of his criticism of media and the ridiculous sensationalism of modern journalism. I openly eavesdropped until they stood up, put on almost matching Canadian Mountain hats (like this), and left.
 
Abbie arrived a little later and after she’d eaten we lurked in the foyer waiting for her speech therapy mates; Canadian Kira and Chaotic Clare*. I picked up the Wellcome Trust guide and on the first page I opened, slap bang in the middle was new Dodgeball team mate and friend Ben Thompson, sporting the stylish cardigan/exposed socks and brogues look:
 

I mean, we knew he worked at the Wellcome Trust, but we presumed his science writing work kept him desk bound rather than allowing him time to pursue his museum brochure modelling career. Abbie sent him a ‘who’s this handsome devil?’ email and we sacked off waiting for her mates and just went into the exhibition.

We’d seen adverts over London for the past few months, but didn’t know a great deal about the actual exhibition other than that it was entitled ‘Death’ and we’d liked how that looked in our diaries (“Oh Thursday evening? No, I’m sorry, I’ve got an appointment with Death then”). But I impressed even myself when literally the first piece we examined, a photo of a skull-topped cane, I already knew the entire biography of the photographer. Complete fluke, but a few years ago when I was on a wave of reading musician biographies, I read Just Kids by Patti Smith, an account of her first serious relationship, which happened to be with tortured artist Robert Mapplethorne. He and Patti broke up owing to his commitment to being homosexual, though remained emotionally connected until he died of AIDS in 1989. I imagine the inevitability of his death at that time was the reason for the move away from BDSM art to photos like this skull cane, and his inclusion in the room titled ‘Contemplating Death’. 

The exhibition was nicely curated, with each room presenting a different stage of approaching, experiencing or coming to terms with death. We were examining a painting of the Good Man and the Bad Man, which indicated how the level of purity in your life will dictate the manner of your death (basically, don’t drink or have wild sex, kids. You’ll die like the baddie in Patrick Swayze’s ‘Ghost’) when Dodgeball Dr Ben turned up. He gave us a useful express tour of the good stuff in the exhibition (or at the least the stuff he knew a little about) and with his Wellcome Trust staff identity pass, we felt like we were hanging with a VIP. In the next room, the highlight was this incredible plasticine skull made by Argentinian Collective ‘Mondongo’. It’s so intricate and made up of such a large number of popular culture references, there’s no way any photos online do it any justice. You really should go see it yourselves. We’re talking Pacman meets A Clockwork Orange. 
 
The next room was called ‘Violent Death’ and mainly consisted of art about war, by Jacques Callot, Otto Dix and Francisco Goya. I’m mentioning these names in a way that suggests I knew who they were. I really didn’t. I’d completely peaked at Robert Mapplethorne. But later that evening, attempting to be a proper socially-aware grown-up, I was downloading some Radio 4 podcasts and stumbled across ‘Great Lives’ and a podcast specifically about Goya. Using the selection process of what to learn that I’d developed on my trip around Europe (whereby if the same thing coincidentally appears twice or more in a short space of time, I’ll read up on it) I figured I should have a listen. So turns out Goya was a Spanish painter whose works were pretty subversive and at times risque (he painted a nude woman with pubes. Goya, you ruddy devil). The podcast explained his progression through royal and noble courts, and his reliance on his wife Josefa as a sometimes muse and as a carer after he went deaf and suffered a mental breakdown. Over his lifetime, his non-commissioned work became pretty macabre, and it was some images from his series entitled ‘The Disasters of War’ that were in the Wellcome Collection. These were relatively miserable, though Otto Dix was probably a bit more disturbing and this was presumably because he’d actually been a soldier during WW1 and so all of his paintings were versions of his memories on the battlefield. Pretty dark. 

In later rooms there were some clever paintings with scenes that could also be viewed as skulls if you looked at them the right way (called ‘metamorphic postcards’, apparently. See here), and some sculptures, models and mexican puppets as well as some random photos of people holding skulls (and I use random in the correct sense; the curator Richard Harris had just found a selection of photos of unknown people who were holding skulls in their holiday snaps). Abbie liked the Victorian photograph of some science students standing next to a skeleton on a table, all typically unsmiling even as the guy on the end turns the skull to look at the camera. 
 
The last room contained an infographic about death and the causes of death during 20th century. Those Chinese have got a lot to answer to apparently. Two civil wars and then all that communism? Rotters. We were discussing non-communicable diseases when Chaotic Clare, Canadian Kira and Toe-Shoe Matt turned up. After briefly looking at the bone chandelier (see the timelapse installation of that here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TioV1BWjiyM) Abbie and I went to the permanent collection upstairs as they looked around, though called it a day after looking at the mummified man and the extracted, preserved tattooed skin of some 19th century LADS (minging). 

I figure if I end this post with the following, I’ll look look a prop-ah writer:

Death: A Self Portrait, curated by Richard Harris, is displaying at the Wellcome Collection in London until Sunday 24th February.

*A week doesn’t pass without Abbie coming home with a story about how Clare has lost something important, forgotten about an exam or locked herself INSIDE her own flat. I’m impressed how she happily functions in such chaos. 

Thursday, 8 November 2012

Day 37: Paris to London

Highlights:


  • Familiarity with the Boulangerie Assistant
  • Tony Shaw's Tour of London
  • Ligretto and Game of Knowledge, a 80s children's trivial pursuit

After checking the election results, I packed quickly in the morning (did I mention that I'd washed and folded all my clothes already?) and then went for a quick farewell to the Boulangerie. Turns out she knew my order already; two croissants and a baguette tradition. I've only been here ten days. I 100% believe I haven't eaten 20 croissants and 10 baguettes. That's insane. I also stopped off for some journey supplies, and accidentally became involved in one customer's annoyance with the staff. I made some French sounding 'ooh la la, non, merh' sounds in response which seemed to satisfy her though I had NO idea what she was talking about. I went to take a quick photo of Mavis (below) and then went back to tidy up and listen to another Bernstein. 



Like all international high-flyers, I was getting the Megabus home. On Wednesdays, if you're under 26, the maximum you pay on any journey is £5. If you have £2.50 of T*sco club card points, this doubles in megabus vouchers and pays for the entire journey. So for this bus ride, I only had to pay a 50p reservation fee. Seriously. 50p to get home from Paris.  The bus station was at Porte Maillot just slightly north west of where I was, so I grabbed my final Metro and then an RER line (which I think is their overground?). It wasn't exactly clear where you had to go as you came out of the RER station, but I asked and found you had to just walk past the Palais des Congres, and then turn right and you can see a few buses parked up. Not an obvious, huge bus park, but a little common sense will get you there. I don't know why I thought the driver of the Mega Bus would be French, but I started trying to say "J'ai un billet pour Londres" when in his best southern accent said 'You're going to London? I'm going to London too!'. What a joker. He greeted all the passengers like they were long lost friends. Calvin, his name was. He made a few more jokes and then we were on our way.

So after trying to defend English humour to Isabelle, I was somewhat struggling as Calvin told an anecdote about how he saw a man give a homeless guy some food. The guy's face lit up then fell as he realised it was some Pedigree Chum for his dog. The driver thought it was classic. He laughed for ages. I felt like crying for that poor man. The only thing that cheered me up was discovering the free WiFi on the bus. 50p for a half-full bus with toilet (I didn't try it, but the whole bus looked pretty clean/modern), a Ferry crossing and free WiFi. Brilliant. We raced through France, which was looking pretty grey and miserable, and at some point along the way when I must have been napping, Calvin got off and someone else started driving us. An easy bit of passport control at Calais, and we made the earlier ferry crossing than planned. 

Not really much to say about ferries, is there? We were on the Spirit of Britain if that's of any interest? You can read more about it on this informed website (http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1345529/Spirit-Britain-Biggest-cross-Channel-vessel-steams-Dover-port.html). Look at those pictures and just imagine me and some strangers sitting there, charging our phones. I bought some Fireman Sam tissues (he's Welsh, you know) and then had to defend myself to the shop assistant for my choice. He obviously thought we were kindred spirits and broke into an anecdote about Andy Pandy or something. He was trying out Movember but definitely fell into the looks-like-a-sex-offender-who-lurks-in-park-playgrounds category.



We pulled into Dover. I took a deep breath to prepare myself for miserable England (Facebook updates from my UK friends over the past few weeks have been mainly about the weather) and looked out above the White Cliffs with a sense of foreboding only to see a nice blue/purple sky, with the sun just setting. Beautiful! It didn't take long for that feeling to fade though, and I felt myself descending into post-holiday blues. I sulked as it got dark quickly, and I put on some Bon Iver to match my mood. But as we neared London, I decided to fix up. I spotted Canary Wharf in the distance and I put some big songs on that would bring the city to life. Elbow, Arcade Fire, Alabama Shakes, Beck and then as we drove properly into the centre, I put on some solid music*. 

So despite having been all over Europe and seen so many cool cities, London is still an impressive city to come into. Landmarks aside, other features had all of a sudden developed a nostalgic warmth. Never before have New Cross Gate station and Elephant and Castle roundabout looked so beautiful. The big Tesco near Old Kent Road looked like some sort of architectural masterpiece. The kebaberies and insert-any-word-here-FCs (Fried Chicken) houses looked mouth-watering. The bus crossed the Thames (probably the best European river?) and I could see Big Ben (Is it Elizabeth Tower now?) all lit up and the London Eye in all its Ferris Wheel glory. What a sight. 

We pulled into Victoria Station around 6pm, and my brilliant housemate Tony was waiting in his car ("Barbara, call me Barbs") to pick me up. It was peak rush hour (yeah, so London is the worst city in Europe that I've seen for traffic. Paris second worst), so we ended up taking a slow tour through central London. It was just as good as, if not better than, arriving in the European cities. We drove past Buckingham Palace (Tour Guide Tony 'That's Parliament), down the Mall (Tony - "That's Marble Arch"), across Trafalgar Square, seeing the National Gallery and Nelson's Column (Tony - "That's Cleopatra's Needle"), along Embankment seeing Somerset House, the National Theatre and the new Blackfriars Solar-powered Bridge (which is actually really cool if you haven't seen it - http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/picture/2012/jul/05/blackfriars-solar-bridge). Up past the Crossrail works near Farringdon (apparently even with this super-fast new train, it's still going to take 46minutes from Shenfield to Farringdon. That doesn't seem much more of a timesaver than the current train service....), seeing St Paul's (Tony - "That's the Shard) and the Shard lit up with red lights (Tony - "That's St Paul's").

So an interesting development; we passed a bus which advertised the PQA (Pauline Quirke Academy of Performing Arts). Seems somewhat niche. Also, seems people have mastered the Boris Bike Wheelie since I've been gone? That was pretty impressive. I also listened to my first ever Zane Lowe (WHO'S ON BOARD?) as we drove up through Angel. He announced that they're playing Arcade Fire's 'Neon Bible' in full next week as part of their 'Masterpieces' segment. Apparently mixed in with interviews with the band. We headed to Becka's house just off Essex Road. Wednesday night is normally Dodgeball night (we're in a league, and our team seem to have suspiciously only started winning since I've been away...), but there was a week off (following the Fancy Dress special the previous week) so the team had congregated at Becka's for a games night. There was a beautiful reunion with my friend/editor/landlord Abbie, and then after dinner we got on with the serious business of Ligretto (http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=ligretto). This is actually a really fun game, if a tad aggressive with certain players, so I'd recommend it. Then we played some 1980s kid's board game that we found in the corner of the room called GAME OF KNOWLEDGE. It was a bit like Trivial Pursuit but instead of cheeses you got planet rings. The questions might have been easy in the 80s, so even by answering the kids questions, it was a bit tricky ("Who is the current pope?" etc). I've found a link for it but bear in mind, this version is MUCH more modern than ours. Our cards were all crusty and dusty. The game asking about English 1980s general knowledge was perhaps slightly more difficult for the Canadian players amongst us (http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3514/game-of-knowledge).

After a few serious hours of gaming, we up and left, passing this creepy mofo on the way out:



Back home, I found my new Kindle Fire waiting for me, but even better, a new hob. A hob that can heat up in under 20minutes. What a treat. Tony is probably the only 20something guy I know who could fit a new hob by himself; he's a total DIY marvel. 



I went to bed on my MEMORY FOAM (which I'm pretty sure remembered me. It seemed to sigh with relief at my return), wearing new pyjamas and fell asleep watching an episode of Red Dwarf on my Kindle Fire.

End of Day 37.

* A selection of my Driving-into-London playlist: Talking Heads (Naive Melody), Blur (End of a Century), Django Django (Default), Arcade Fire (Rebellion), Alabama Shakes (Hold On), Elbow (One Day Like This), Jamie T (Sticks and Stones), Supergrass (Moving), Beck (Think I'm in Love), De La Soul Presents Plug One and Plug Two (Must Be the Music) and Bloc Party (One More Chance)